UAL ballets russes: Materials and making

Project summary

This project investigates the Ballets Russes Collection held by the University of the Arts London (UAL) Archives and Special Collections Centre, a unique teaching collection of costumes and textiles from Serge Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes company (1909–1929). Despite the cultural importance of these iconic costumes, relatively little is known about their material composition, construction methods and conservation needs. Using optical microscopy, Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR), and X-ray Fluorescence (XRF) analysis, the project will examine selected costume pieces to identify fibres, pigments, dyes, metals and other materials, providing new insights into how these complex multi-material garments were created and preserved.

The project will establish how heritage science approaches can support the study, teaching and conservation of historic costume collections. The findings will improve object records, inform future care strategies and provide new material knowledge for archivists, curators, students and researchers. The project will also explore how scientific data can enhance practice-based teaching and enable more accurate digital representations of historic dress. As a pilot study, it will demonstrate the wider potential of material analysis across costume collections internationally, supporting future comparative research into Ballets Russes garments, their makers, production techniques and the creative processes behind these influential works.